Basically my car has been clamped at uni (in colchester), just wondering if anyone has the means to remove it for me so i can rescue my car?? without paying the huge fine thanks guys
What sort of clamp? Can you let the air out of the tyres and remove it?
Unfortunatly I dont have anything that could cut through a clamp. Sorry Apart from a chisel and hammer if required. I have a drill but it's 240V. I'll check back to see if you reply if you need them. However I'll be in the garage working on my deuce so I'll try check back as often as poss...Hopefully someone else will be better prepared.
You might use something from the following text I found. Good luck!!
How We Beat the Boot Parking boots are public property.
The parking-control officers who attach them to your wheels intend for them to stay there until you've paid off your fines. Removing the boot without authorization, or damaging it in any way, is a crime.
Nevertheless, in cities like Denver and Boston, where the boot has been a part of life for years, the contraptions occasionally disappear. In some cities, more than 10 percent of the boot stock has vanished or been rendered inoperable.
That came as no surprise to the mechanical experts who examined our boot. The boot, they say, is nowhere near as tough as it looks. Anyone with less than $30 worth of basic hand tools and enough dexterity to screw in a light bulb can probably break the boot's grip on a car wheel in about ten minutes.
The boot is designed to intimidate, our experts say; its toughest parts are the ones that would be the most obvious targets for boot-busting vandals -- the lock mechanism, for example. With a special tamper-resistant padlock surrounded by a box made of quarter-inch carbon steel plates, the lock will stand up to just about anything short of a low-yield nuclear device. So our bootbusters ignored the lock and looked for other less-obvious places where the boot could be attacked. It took them no time to discover several major weak points in the boot's protective armor.
Deflating the tire.
If the boot is going to work properly, it must be properly installed, and that's not an easy process -- especially in the dark, when you have a long night of boot-installing ahead. If the installation is even a bit sloppy (that is, if the jaws that attach the boot to the wheel are a little bit loose), it's often possible to remove the boot by letting the air out of the tire and simply sliding the whole thing off.
This is by far the simplest strategy. It doesn't always work -- conscientious installer can prevent it almost every time, and some car wheels don't leave enough room for the process anyway. But veterans of boot-happy cities have told us they've removed dozens of boots this way, quickly, quietly, and easily.
The hubcap plate.
A key element to the boot's effectiveness is its ability to prevent car-owners from getting access to the lug nuts on the booted wheel. Once the lug nuts are accessible, the wheel can be removed and replaced with a spare tire, and the car can be driven away.
If the boot is properly installed, the plate will be tightly secured over the hubcaps, making it impossible event to imagine loosening the lug nuts. But the plate is one of the more flimsy parts of the boot; it's attached by a half-inch swivel pin that is spot-welded to the frame. As our boot-busting experts explained, spot welds that hold together two pieces of metal of different thicknesses are inherently weak. There are several such welds on the boot, and this one is especially vulnerable.
With a common battery-powered drill and a 15-cent grinding wheel or "cut-off tool", one of our experts was able to grind away most of the weld on the pin in about two minutes. With a five-dollar cold chisel and a standard hammer, he did the same job even faster.
Once the weld is broken, a quick blow with a hammer forced the pin out, releasing the plate from the boot frame and making it easy to change the tire and drive away, leaving the old, boot-laden tire behind (or safely stowed in the trunk as a souvenir).
The jaw-to-frame pins.
The main frame of the boot -- the "arm" -- fit into a pair of metal pins on the wheel-clamp, or "jaw". The pins are a central element of the boot's structure. They're also one of its weakest links.
The pins are only about an inch long. when the boot is installed, they appear to be connected to each other through some sort of thick, central rod. In fact, they're just stuck into holes drilled in the frame, and spot-welded at the bottom.
Even when the boot is assembled, there's plenty of free play between the arm and the pins. A few strong, sharp blows with a hammer on the top of the pins quickly breaks them free and makes them easy to remove. With those pins gone, the boot comes apart immediately.
The welds holding the lock-box to the frame. For all the effort that the bootmakers put into developing an impregnable locking mechanism, it's amazing how loosely the lock-box is attached to the rest of the boot. Four flimsy spot-welds hold the entire padlock-and-cover-plate assembly to the main boot frame. It took an expert just a few seconds to chip away one of the welds with a chisel and hammer; when one of our spastic, incompetent, weak-wristed editors tried it on a second weld a few days later, it took less than a minute.
Once the lock-box is liberated from the frame, the entire boot can be dismantled and removed quickly with a ratchet and standard (16-inch) spark-plug socket.
The arm itself.
If all else fails, our experts discovered that they could actually cut through the tough-looking steel of the main arm with a battery-powered drill and a cut-off tool. forget the oxyacetylene torches and the nitric acid -- the boot arm cuts like butter with a cheap hobbyist's tool. By our calculations, a standard drill-and-cut-off tool set-up can cut through the main arm in less than ten minutes.
you must not damage the clamp ot you get done for criminal damage, but if you can remove it without damage you have to hand it in to any police station ANY police station could be in scotland £30 is quite cheep anyway a girl on fiatforum had to pay £95 to get one off her panda or they was going to take car to a pound and it would be more money plus storage, the cat was a panda only worth £50 but it had cd player and baby seat so she had to pay it.
How come if your a student at uni you not allowed to park there?
cozz the car park r ment to b for all the valuebul teachers and ther posh cars no 4 the first years!! should have turned ur wheels not sure if it does work? worth a try i think!!
Lower your car to the floor or fit 20's or both..... that way no bugger can get them round your wheels unless they damage the car and which case you can bill them!!!!!!!!!!!!
But if on your car......... dont damage them or you will get done as has been said.
best thing pay the £30 squid find somewhere more sneaky to park
Some wheel clamps u can just get in yur car start it up put it in gear and drive out the fuckers or just pay the fine if u have any scratches on theel try and say that they must of done that wen they put there stupid clamp on its worth a try.
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without paying the huge fine 
Apart from a chisel and hammer if required. I have a drill but it's 240V. I'll check back to see if you reply if you need them. However I'll be in the garage working on my deuce so I'll try check back as often as poss...Hopefully someone else will be better prepared.
Do Not F*ck Me Off You Wouldn't Like Me When I'm Angry
